Taco Carts and 'Street Food'
in Puerto Vallarta
you wander the city, you will find food carts in almost every
neighborhood, but especially in Viejo Vallarta. Eating fresh-made
tacos and quesadillas on the street is a way of life here
for dinner, lunch, or snacks…and an economical choice
Look for where the locals are eating…they’ve
probably tried many different carts and have decided this
one is the best. If your knowledge of the language isn’t
quite perfect, don’t worry. Hold up 3 fingers, point
to which type of meat you want on the grill, and you’ll
get three perfect, fresh tacos. Don’t worry about where
they wash the dishes…your plate is covered with a fresh
disposable plastic bag.
Here’s a list of the common offerings
of meat: Carne Asada is grilled or fried
beefsteak. Pastor is beef cooked on a vertically-rotating
spit; and looks kind of like greek gyros. Usually served with a chunk
of roasted pineapple. Puerque is pork, Tripa
is tripe, Jamon is ham, and Pollo
is Chicken. Birria is Goat meat. Not very
common, but VERY tasty, even if it’s a bit greasy.
here’s the different ways you can have your meal or
snack: Tacos made with a small soft corn
tortilla. “Hard shell” tacos like they make at Taco Bell up North are virtually unknown
here, however there are acouple little carts that make "Dorados" which are tacos fried crisp in the juice and fat of the meat before they are filled. Quesadillas are soft flour tortilla
filled with melted cheese. If you don’t order any meat,
it will come with just cheese. Gorditas -
Some stands offer “the little fatty” as a thick
corn tortilla covered with sauce and your choice of meat,
and topped with cheese…sort of like a little Mexican
pizza. Tortas are sandwiches made with a French-bread
style roll. A favorite is the ‘Cubana’, an ‘everything’
sandwich with ham or bologna, pork, at least one kind of cheese,
tomatoes, lettuce, chilies (if you want), and mayonnaise.
Burritas - Burritos are not common here
(it’s more a northern-Mexico or ‘Tex-Mex’
food), but you may find ‘Burritas’ which are small
rolled and fried tacos. Tostadas are hard-fried
corn tortillas; here in Puerto Vallarta they are commonly
topped with seafood ceviche - fresh chopped seafood mixed
with onions, tomatoes, and a few spices.
Every cart has a supply of soft drinks, typically
Coke or Pepsi plus all those companies’ other products
(Sprite, 7-up, Fanta Orange, etc.). One you're probably not
familiar with is generically called 'manzanita' which is a
delicious apple soda, not unlike carbonated apple juice. But
the best deal and the best refreshment is the cart’s
‘agua’. The word means ‘water’, but
it’s typically one of two types of flavored water. “Jamaica”
(say “Ha-MY-ee-cah”) is a cold tea made from the
flowers of the Jamaica plant, deep red in color, sweetened,
and delicious. The other is Horchata (say “Ore-CHA-tah”),
a milky-white drink made from rice milk, vanilla, and cinnamon.
Cold, tasty, nutritious, and absolutely refreshing.
Speaking of refreshments, try “tuba”
when you are on the Malecon or wherever you might encounter
it. This traditional drink is a concoction of coconut milk
and palm sap with little chunks of apple and nuts, served
over ice. You’ll see vendors
carrying a pole over their shoulders, a large gourd on one
end and a bag of ice and cups on the other. Usually 10 to 15
pesos depending on size. Sweet, refreshing, and very tasty.
You might also encounter vendors of ‘tejuino’,
another native drink, which we don’t know what it is
but once we tried it we were not impressed. Fermented something,
and quite bitter. If you’ve got an adventurous streak,
try it out just to say you did so, then let us know what you
thought of it.
We’re aware of many guidebooks that
advise against eating from the street carts and vendors on
the basis of health and sanitation reasons, but feel that
their views are a tad over-paranoid. All the carts are regularly
inspected for sanitation, and carts serving poor quality food
simply don’t stay in business long. There are a few
things you might want to do if you’re concerned. Squeeze
some lime (“limon”) on your tacos before eating
them…every cart has limes, and the juice is a natural
anti-bacterial, and adds a flavorful ‘zing’ to
your food. Also, if your stomach tends to be sensitive, take
some Pepto-Bismal before your meal. Finally, most stomach
problems aren’t from the food itself, but rather the
excessive use of spicy sauces the diner is not familiar with.
You can ask in advance which sauces are spicy/not spicy by
pointing and asking: “Picante?” or “No picante?”
the edible offerings are more mobile than the typical stationery
food cart...look for 3-wheeled bikes with pots of hot corn
or tamales, or roving vendors with all the fixings for gorditas
or empenadas kept in coolers and plastic buckets, all strapped
to a two-wheel dolly. You’ll also find carts selling
hot dogs wrapped in bacon, giant (if a bit thin) hamburgers,
crepes, and snacks of all types. A fried-corn snack is sold
on the beach and in the plazas…you’ll see vendors
with huge baskets of these multi-shaped snacks which taste
a bit like ‘Fritos’ but lighter, and it’s
common to douse them with the provided lime, salt, and/or
hot sauce. Don’t be afraid to buy a bag and try them.
You’ll also find corn-on-the-cob, but it’s not
nearly as sweet and juicy as the sweet corn ‘up north’.
They make it work here with a liberal slathering of butter,
sour cream, lime juice, dry cheese, and/or chili powder. All
these things together mixed in a cup (as it is commonly offered)
is a very tasty, inexpensive, and satisfying snack.
of the best ‘street foods’ is actually on the
beach - Fish on a Stick is only 20 pesos (or 3 for 50 pesos),
and you’ll get several nice chunks of freshly-grilled
white fish on a stick, with lime and hot sauce if you want.
Also available in shrimp, but served un-peeled, which makes
it a bit messy…so grab plenty of napkins. You’ll
see vendors carrying the goods on most of the beaches, most
notably Playa los Muertos, Puerto Vallarta’s most popular
beach south of the Cuale River.
Best bet is to get yours straight from the grill…we
recommend Mariscos Vicky, at the little pedestrian bridge
between the Playa los Arcos Hotel and Langostino’s Restaurant.
They’ve got a few tables on the beach, big chunks of
fish, and friendly smiles.
You can also get plates of freshly-shucked raw oysters on
the beach…again, best bet is to go find them at the
source, rather than take a chance on oysters that have been
walked around in the sun for too long.
are absolutely sinfully delicious, better than a Krispy-Kreme
any day. This is basically a stick-like donut, dough squeezed
out of a giant stainless-steel caulk gun, fried in oil and
then coated with cinnamon and sugar. There’s usually
a stand set up outside the Santa Cruz church in Viejo Vallarta
at the corner of Cardeñas and Aguacate Streets. Just
say “cinco pesos” or “diez pesos”
(5 pesos or 10 pesos), and you’ll get a nice paper bag
of fresh, hot, greasy, sweet, tasty, diet-busting delight.
Fruit stands are common in Puerto Vallarta,
and are a great source of snacks or vegetarian meals. For
the typical price of 10 to 15 pesos, you‘ll get a plastic
bag or cup of freshly sliced fruit. One popular stand is at
the corner of Cardenas and Insurgentes in Viejo Vallarta.
Just point to what you want, and Alejandro will slice it up
for you; or practice your Spanish with the glossary below.
juice is a staple of Puerto Vallarta street food, and a great
way to start your day. Once you’ve had sweet fresh-squeezed
orange juice you’ll never be able to enjoy that stuff
you buy in a carton back home. There are fresh juice stands
all over Vallarta, sometimes operated for a few hours each
morning in front of the squeezer’s house. If you’re
starting your morning in Viejo Vallarta, there’s a very
popular stand on Insurgentes Street at the corner of the big
pharmacy (Farmacia Guadalajara). Prices range from 8 to 12
pesos depending on location and size. Say “Para llevar”
(“Pah-rah Yah-var”, meaning ‘to go’)
and they’ll pour it in a plastic bag with a straw for
a portable drink. Check the glossary below, or simply point
at what you want.
FRUIT and VEGGIE GLOSSARY: