I can hear you saying, “HOW to drink a beer in Puerto Vallarta?
Don’t I just order one and it comes to the table and I drink
Well, yes it can be that
simple. But it doesn’t have to be. And then there’s
the choice of WHICH beer to drink…there are choices involved
here, though not nearly as many as you are probably used to back
home, since there are really only 2 brewers in Mexico and imports
in Puerto Vallarta are rare. Beer-on-tap is extremely rare, but
micro-brews are finally available at the Los Muertos Brewing company in "Old Town" (and they also make a great pizza!).
Let’s start with
the basics: The Spanish word for beer is “Cerveza”
(say ‘Sair-Vay-Zsah”). If you run a bar or store in
Puerto Vallarta, you may only serve the beer from ONE brewing
company. The brewery ‘sponsors’ your store or bar
and provides coolers, signage, tables and chairs, and even the
painting of your premises in exchange for your loyalty to their
company. Very few bars or stores offer both brands.
biggest brewery is Grupo Modelo, who’s main beer brands
are Pacifico and the infamous Corona. The other brewery makes
Tecate and Sol, as well as lesser-known brands such as Bohemia
(very malty and tasty), and XX (pronounced 'Does-Eck-Ees'). And
except for Bohemia, your tastebuds will hardly notice which one
you drink, they are all light pilsner beers along the lines of
Budweiser (who actually owns about half of Grupo Modelo) or Miller
or Pabst, etc.
is a famously Mexican beer which we’re sure you’ve
heard of. Down here, it’s considered rather a ‘tourist’
beer, while more of the ‘locals’ drink the brown-bottled
Pacifico. The clear glass bottle of Corona allows it to get ‘light-struck’,
a bad thing for beer as it tends to develop a ‘skunky’
odor and taste. For some reason, the clear-bottled Sol doesn’t
seem to suffer from this problem. In any case, the habit of squeezing
a bit of lime (“limon”) into a Corona solves the problem,
and many beer drinkers get into the habit of a little lime juice
in whichever brand they drink. Almost any bar or restaurant in
Puerto Vallarta will automatically serve a plate of cut limes
and salt with your beer…if they don’t, simply say
“limon, por favor” (‘lime, please).
‘other beers’ from the Big-2 brewers are Modelo, Modelo
Light, and Negra Modelo, and Estrella from Grupo Modelo…Modelo
is a typical beer but in a can; Modelo Light is possibly the same
beer in a different can, and Negra Modelo is a ‘dark’
beer in a foil-labeled bottle that is only slightly richer in
taste, and it’s possible it merely has a few more hops and
a bit of coloring added to it. From the other brewery is Tecate
Light, again in a can and VERY light. Indio is a darker beer,
not quite as rich in flavor as Negra Modelo, and if you were holding
a blindfolded taste-test, you might be hard-pressed to identify
this as a ‘dark’ beer. New on the scene in 2014 in Vallarta is Victoria, often sold in stores in a 16-ounce "Tall Boy" can at a good price, and is darker and richer than anything other than perhaps Negra Modela.
Light beers have recently become more popular. While a "typical" beer rates about 4.5% alcohol, Tecate Light checks in at 3.9%, and Pacifico Light clocks in at just 3%. I personally prefer the latter...good taste, and besides coming in the typical 12-oz can also arrives in a silver "tall boy" (16-oz) can that's a fair value.
Budweiser, Bud Light, and O’Doul’s
(non-alcoholic) are available in some Modelo establishments.
Tecate makes a "Sol Cero" that is also alcohol-free. Heineken can be found in some of the nicer restaurants, and Coors Light has recently become available. Sometimes at the larger grocery stores you'll find cases of cheap imports that are not bad (such as "Gallo" from Guatamala which rates a hefty 5% alcohol content). But really,
as you can see, your choices are limited compared to the offerings in the U.S. or Canada. . There are, however,
some variations in beer-drinks in Puerto Vallarta to make up for
lack of variety…these are worth trying, and you might find
yourself hooked by the time you go back home.
“Michelada” is the most common deviation. It’s
a beer with a healthy portion of lime juice and worcestershire
sauce served over ice. Very refreshing, and it stays cold! Another
option is to order a glass of Clamato (tomato juice and clam juice…who
ever thought of mixing those two things together???) and mix it
with your beer. It’s common to have it over ice as well,
and as weird as it may sound, is very tasty and refreshing.
Buying beer at the store shouldn’t be tricky,
but it can be. Let’s cover the big Grupo Modelo brands first.
Corona and Pacifico are purchased by-the-bottle, and come in three
sizes: the “Ballena” (‘whale’)
(about a quart, and also commonly called a Caguama - pronounced "Cay-wah-mah"); the “Medio” (‘1/2’) which
is about 12 ounces; and the “Quarto” (‘1/4’)
which is about 6 ounces.
The latter is usually only served either in the
summer when a ‘normal’ (medio) beer tends to get too
warm to be enjoyable before you get to the bottom, OR by establishments
who offer what seems like a killer deal for a bucket of beers
and then delivers the little guys when you expected the ‘normal’
size. See a great deal on a bucket of beers? ASK FIRST if they
are ‘medios’ or ‘quartos’.
In any case, if you buy Corona or Pacifico IN
BOTTLES at a store, you will also pay for a deposit. No big deal,
right? WRONG. The deposit is a big money maker for beer sales.
You must KEEP your receipt showing the beer deposit, and bring
the bottles back ONLY TO THAT STORE for a refund. No other store
will refund your bottles for you. A different store WILL exchange
your empties for fresh beers without charging the deposit, but
If you are only buying 6 beers at a time, then
this isn’t a tradgedy. But if you get your beer a case at
a time for parties on your balcony, this can add up to be some
substantial money. The deposit on a ‘medio’ bottle
is typically 3 pesos or almost $0.30 (usd), so the deposit on
a case of 20 is about $6.00. Deposits on the ‘ballena’
size bottles is double or more that amount. By the way, while
Corona is a ‘clear-bottle’ beer, it comes in a brown
bottle in the ‘ballena’ size.
with all rules, there is an exception to the above, being the
‘Corona en Baril’, sold in six-packs of disposable
brown barrel-shaped bottles.
Moving onto the Tecate brewery, Tecate and Sol
are usually served and sold in non-returnable (no deposit) twist-off
bottles, as well as cans. However, You can also buy Sol and Indio
in ‘ballena’-size bottles, which require paying a
Finding a place to buy beer is not difficult…nearly
every other street-corner market sells beer. Modelo has beer-and-snack
stores called ‘Modeloramas’, and ‘SIX’ and OXXO
stores which sell Tecate brews are all over Puerto Vallarta. All
the SIX and OXXO stores and some of the Modeloramas have a large plastic
ice cooler near the front of the store stuffed with chipped ice
and beer…if you ask for a bit of ice to keep your beer cold,
you can grab a few chunks and put them in the bag. Regardless
of whether cans or bottles are wrapped in some sort of six-pack
container, feel free to take just one or a few beers if that’s
all you want.
are four other 'regional' beers made by Grupo Modelo, and you
may find these brands in larger 'Modelorama' stores: Estrella
is a Pilsner type beer sold primarily here in the state of Jalisco.
León is a Munich style beer, dark with a full bouquet and
body, sold mainly in southeastern Mexico.Montejo is also a regional
brand found mainly in the Mexican Southeast.
The Grupo Modelo product with the longest tradition
is Victoria, a Vienna type beer. Its history goes back to 1865,
the year in which the "Toluca y México" Brewery
was founded in the city of Toluca.Victoria beer has been present
at many of the great events of Mexican history, especially the
Revolution. Lithographs still exist of Emilio Zapata's followers
in which the Victoria logo can be seen. Unique for its strong,
bitter taste that immediately convinces the most demanding consumer,
Victoria beer has kept its original label, showing Gambrinus,
King of Beer, holding his beer mug.
Most SIX, OXXO, and Modelorama stores also sell
a limited selection of liquor, primarily tequila, rum, and vodka,
as well as ‘cana’, which is HIGH-potency cane alcohol,
along the lines of ‘Everclear’. OXXO stores are very similar to the convenience stores you are familiar with "up north".
Now that we’re clear on all this, enjoy
your beer in Puerto Vallarta!